Tutorial 0: ODROID-GO Build
-
Author: Brian A. Ree
Sections
0: Tools Needed
- A small screwdriver set that contains a few small phillips head screwdrivers.
- A clean static free work surface.
- An 8Gb or 16GB micro SD card. (Required for software setup)
- Laptop or desktop computer with SD card reader. (Required for software setup)
1: Introduction and Tutorial Goals
Hello and welcome to our first ODROID device tutorial. This review will show you in detail how we build a Monku1000 from a standard
ODROID-GO kit from hardkernel.com. You won't need anything more than a scredriver set to accomplish
the task and we'll show you all the little tips we've learned after building a bunch of these things. The tutorial is mainly driven by photos of
the device construction at each step in the process so let's get to it!
2: The Kit
First thing's first let's go over where you can aquire an ODROID-GO. You could search ebay and find an already built one but what would
be the fun in that. So your two options are going to be ordering one directly from the manufacturer, or ordering one from Amazon.
Now the direct ordering is cheeper, the kit goes for $38, but the delivery charges can be a lot. Don't go by the initial delivery cost, enter in
some address info to get a more accurate price. Now it would help to find some friends who want to build one too and all go in together to save on shipping.
If you order on Amazon.com you will pay around $60 for the kit, which sort of comes out to around the same price when you include shipping.
For me I ordered directly from hardkernel.com and got a few other items to make the shipping cost hurt less.
3: The Build
Now that we got that covered, let's start by unpacking the kit. And separating the included items on a nice clean, flat,
and static free work surface. The kitchen table should sufice but make sure you are in a place where you don't build up a static charge, you can really
fry a component with a static shock. Tip: Make sure the speaker is away from any metal. The speaker has a magnet and can get damaged
if it pulls itself into a sharp metal object.
First thing we need to do is take out the case front and screen. Place them on a clear work area.
Use the plastic bubble wrap that is protecting the screen down as a safe area to place the screen face down.
Place the case front face down on the safe area. Gently peel off the protective layer on the screen by using the tab.
Save this for later use by placing it sticky side up, by the tab, on a clean surface out of the way.
Next place the screen face down with the top of the screen going under the plastic tabs at the top of the case's
screen hole. Let the bottom of the screen rest on the bottom tabs as shown below.
Tip: Place two fingers on the bottom of the screen at the outside of the tabs and gently push down until the screen snaps in under the tabs.
That's it the screen is in place. Now grab the protective sticker you peeled of and place it on the screen as best you can protecting as much area as possible.
Only do this if the sticker is clean of any debris.
Tip: Fold the protective area, pink bubble wrap, and place the case on top of it so the button slots are off the work surface.
Now pop out all the buttons from the plastic mold and dump the plastic baggie with the button pads.
Place the control buttons on the left and right under the screen. You should have enough room below the case to push the buttons through and have them
sit there nicely.
Place the control buttons on the left and right under the screen. Push them down and roll your thumb around to make sure
they go all the way in. Place the buttons and the directional in their respective places. Then place the rubber pads on top.
Tip: Gently and carefully push down the rubber around the plastic pins just a little bit for each pad.
Place the circuit board in top of the button pads as shown below. The big silver chip should be in the top left corner.
The board will line up perfectly with some guide pins.
Tip: Hand tighten all four screws while the screen is on the work surface. Then pick up the case and finish them up.
You want to tighten them just until they start to get tight, don't over do it, but they shouldn't be loose in any way. They should be
solidly screwed in.
Tip: Pinch the side of the screen connector, both sides at the same time to close it. You'll want to pull the connection
slot all the way out then slide the screen ribbon cable all the way into the connector. Hold the ribbon in while you pinch
both the left and right side of the connection slot.
The white line of the screen ribbon cable should be straight and parallel to the line on the circuit board.
The white line should be close but not on top of the circuit board line.
Now is a good time to check the screen. You can quickly plug the battery into the battery connector.
Make sure the power switch plastic is in place and turn on the device. You should see an SD card error
icon on the screen if everything is ok.
You can now place a special image in the space where the battery goes if you want to customize your device.
Use the battery for sizing. Wrap the battery cable up on the right hand side of the connector and place as shown below.
Tip: Slide the battery in from left to right. So you bend the battery cables up slightly, and slide the battery into its
slot from left to right, then push the left side down until it's snuggly in its place.
Next up is the speaker. Be careful to keep it away from metal objects it has an internal magnet. Connect the speaker cables and wind up the cable just a bit as shown below. If there is some over hanging
plastic on the battery you can slide the speaker cables under the plastic slightly. Make sure the speaker cables are clear of the screw post, and the
center of the speaker itself. Notice the battery and speaker connectors a firmly pushed into place and touch the back of the connection slot.
Another look at the cables.
Make sure that the back of the case can cleanly access the screw post and that the speaker
holder doesn't pin down the speaker cables, the cables should be clear of the center of the speaker.
Close the case with the provided screws. Tip: If the bottom right corner by the speaker doesn't close all the way
give the screws near it a few extra turns till it's super tight. You can always remove play in the case from the
speaker side but you can't remove play in the case from the battery side because there are no screw posts there.
If you do have a lot of play in the case on that side some clear nail polish along the case edge might do the trick.
Personally, I just live with it.
Bam! Now you have a snazzy looking device. The last build step is to add the screen shield on. Remove the protective sticker
from the screen if you have it on.
Peel out the center of the screen shield's adhesive strip. Tip: Use your thumb or the end of a screwdriver
to keep the edge of the strip down while you peel out the center.
Rip the remaining strip down by the tab then slowly peel it off by going around the plastic shield.
Slip the plastic shield into the top of the screen bevel with some downward pressure on the center of the plastic
shield.
Run your finger around the edge of the screen shield and place the device down on the safe area. Tip: Place something
on top of it like a phone. Let it sit for a few min.
Charge your device over USB, the red light will remain on if it turns on when plugged in. To see if it has fully charged
re-plug it in and see if the red light turns on again. If not then it's fully charged.
4: The Software
Check here for info on flashing your device with the latest firmware.
You'll need to get the latest version to make sure that things run nicely and you can load the go-play emulators (NES, SMS, GG, GB, GBC, CV)
when you turn on your device.
For bare bones SD card templates that have everything but the game ROMs also check Check here. You can grab one of these and copy your ROMs to start gaming right away.
You can also find SD card images on ebay for this device just search for it. Then you'll be all setup to retro game on the go!!
